Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Amsterdam by Bike

My first impression upon arriving in Amsterdam was that this was a city of the twenty-first century. Along all major streets in Amsterdam, there is a wide bike lane, filled with cyclists and people on motorized scooters as well. I soon learned that this dynamic required an increased awareness of my surroundings, when I was nearly crushed on a pair of occassions by oncoming cyclists (Amsterdam cyclists have a bit of an aggressive streak as well, perhaps the natural consequence of their having obtained a critical mass that cyclists in most US cities could only dream of).

When I rented a bike, I was able to appreciate things from a more direct perspective. Suddenly, I was gliding across Amsterdam at ten miles per hour. Fellow cyclists smiled at me as I rode by. Instead of being a lowly pedestrian dodging bikes, pedestrians where dodging me (I had to slam on the brakes a couple of time when tourists wandered into my path). Additionally, because Amsterdam is quite flat (the words Netherlands means "low countries")it is eminently bikeable. The weather in Amsterdam is also conducive to cycling: although it rains on mosts days, the rain is usually only a soft patter, and it rarely gets extremely cold here.

Monday, September 27, 2010

A Bar Room Encounter

I gave up on finding an explanation for Indische Buurt (I would go on to ask five more Indians about the neighboorhood, and received a blank expression in return). But it does exist, unbeknownst to many Indians in Amsterdam.

I wandered a few more blocks, and stopped at a typically Dutch bar for a beer. At the counter were three people, a forty-something black woman talking to a man of about 75 who was dressed in a suit and smoking a cigarette. Next to this pair was a Dutchman, about forty years old and a bit lanky. They noticed me ordering in English.

The black woman (Stella) told me that she was originally from Surinam, but had lived in Amsterdam for 20 years. She explained that there was a nearby Surinameese neighborhorhood . Stella introduced her friend as "Tony Montana". "Well, when I met this guy, he was Tony Montana," she said. In character, he theatrically dusted off his jacket, and made a gesture with his hand. He said his name was actually Hamid, and that he was originally from Turkey. Hamid asked me if I lived in Amsterdam. When I told him I was on the way to India, he shouted "India is Turkish!"

The other man started talking to me, asking me a bit about where I had been traveling. I told him I had just been in France. A look of disappointment flashed across his face. "France, they are not like us. It is a bad country."

"Not like you, in what way?" I asked, wondering what could have prompted such a negative assessment of France. The French seemed okay to me. He paused for a moment, seeming to be furtively searching for some words in English, then said "they are just different than us." I could only imagine what misdeed, or perhaps series of misdeeds, the French people could have committed to warrant such enmity. I finished my Heineken, said goodbye to Tony and Stella, and left the bar, and Indische Buurt.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Passage to Amsterdam

The train ride from Paris to Amsterdam is only three hours and forty-five minutes long, but the distance between these two cities marks the transition from a model of civilization which has its roots in Ancient Rome to one that is distinctly Germanic. Not only is Dutch a Germanic language, but the layout of the architecture here has a somewhat Scandinavian feel (some streets in Amsterdam are evocative of Nyhavengade in Copenhagen Denmark).

After a few hours in the touristy area around the red light district (about 75 percent are from some European country other than Holland), I decided I wanted to get a taste of the real Dutch life. I hopped on the first tram, where suddenly I was the only non Dutch person. I discovered that the destination was Indische buurt.

Indische buurt is a thriving community filled mostly with lower-middle class immigrants. On its streets one sees many immigrants from Africa, the Middle East, Indonesia, and even India. After walking for a few minutes, I found myself in front of a grocery store with an Indian flag. I had a question, and I thought here I might find the answer.

"Do you know why this part of town is called Indian Village," I asked the owner, a kindly Indian man of about 70. "Indian Village?" he replied with a look of beffudlement on his face. "Yes, Indische buurt. "This is a store," he said, pausing. "It is not a village."

Friday, September 24, 2010

A crash course in Pétanque


Me, Claude, and Jacques

It was a late summer day in Paris, and the streets were caressed with an unusually Mediterranean warmth. Me and my friend Maithra, whom I had just met a few days earlier at my hostel, and who hales from Bangalore, had headed out to see the Louvre museum. Unfortunately, we soon discovered, the Louvre was closed on Tuesdays.

So we went to the crepe stand and got some inexpensive (and quite tasty) lunch, and walked to the Seine, where we sat down, soaked up the sun, and enjoyed the light breeze from the water. We walked to l'iglese des invalides, and wandered inside for a gander. Housed in the same building, on the other side, was the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte. As we walked into the door, we glimpsed the tomb of Monsieur Bonaparte from a distance just before a man approached us and asked for our ticket. Having seen the tomb already, we turned and left.

We walked a few minutes to a park across from l'iglese des invalides. Here we saw two sixty-something men playing a game which involved several small metal balls. I remembered reading something about this game in the French class I had taken recently but didn't remember what it was called. But it looked like fun. "Should we ask them if we can play with them?" we asked asked each other.

“Nous pouvons jouer avec vous?” we asked tentatively. Actually, my Bangalorean friend asked and I told her what to say, because I feared that these Frenchmen would laugh at us with disdain, or perhaps cast their metal balls in my direction, in response to the request. “Yes,” responded on of them, in English. He introduced himself as Claude. The other man was Jacques, his brother.

The game was called Pétanque explained Claude, who seemed to have a somewhat better grasp of English than his brother. "Pétanque comes from the Provencal language." He proceeded to explain the rules of the game. Jacques' English was about as good as my French, which made for some interesting conversation. Soon the game was afoot. The score was surprisingly close as the game came to a close (I think they were going easy on us), and I wondered to myself “could we emerge victorious against these veteran Frenchman in this, our first game of Petanque?” Alas, the answer was “non,” as they pulled it out, and then invited us to play a second game with them.

Jacques told me he was sixty seven years old. He asked me where I was from in the US, and I said Ohio. “I like California music,” he said. I asked him what music he liked, specifically, and he responded “Beach Boys, Bob Dylan.” He said there was a radio station in Paris that plays “California music” every Saturday for one hour from 11 am to 12 pm. I asked him if he listened to it. “Every week.” He told us a little about his family, and the ages of the various members. “My sister is seventeen,” he said. “Seventy,” corrected Claude, with a laugh.

And so the second game concluded with a more lopsided defeat for our team than the first. Claude and Jacques bid us a warm farewell, and we headed back toward the hostel. “It's a good thing we asked those guys if we could play,” I said to Maithra. “We didn't ask them, I asked them,” she said, grinning.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Cours de anglais, gratuite!

Aprenez vous anglais ou espagnol avec moi gratuite (Paris)


Je suis en americain ici en paris. Je veux ameliorer mon francais, et connaitre amis. Je parle le espagnole aussi. Si te veux ameliorer ton anglais ou espagnole, nous pouvons rencontrer peut-etre et parler a la fois langues.

J'ai trente an et j'aime aprendre autres langues.


A bientot!

James

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Life in a closet?






EUR120 “Chambre de bonne” (maid’s room) in Paris 16th Eiffel Tower

Simple, but nice and quiet room with single bed and a small desk. 7th floor with elevator until the 3th floor.
Wash basin & shower with hot and cold water in the room, toilet in the corridor. Small fridge; microwave oven and a kettle. WIFI connection and free phone for the US
All the linen is provided: sheets and towels.

In the poshest district of Paris, a few steps only from the chic Passy shopping area

Within a one-to-five-minutes walk : lots of shops, bakeries, grocers, cafes, bistros & restaurants, supermarkets, laundromat, out door markets.
Within a 10-to-15-minutes walk : quais de la Seine & Tour Eiffel.
Metro La Muette (line 9)
Price : 120 euros/week, includind everything, nothing extra to pay.


This would probably require optimal use of living space but wouldn't be a bad deal if you are willing to live a somewhat spartan existence.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Acquaintance and reacquaintance

One can travel in many different ways. One can visit old haunts, see long-lost friends, and/or perhaps long-lost family. Or one can discover new places, sights, friends, languages, foods, etcetera.

On this trip, I will be doing a little bit of both. As I set out across Europe, and then eventually arrive in India, I will meet up with some friends I have known for a long time, and visit places that I've been to before, but I will also visit places I've never been in my life, and possibly, hopefully, strike up new friendships. As such, this trip is part acquaintance and part reacquaintance.

I have just been in Spain, where I spent nine days among some amazing, incredible people who I consider to be good friends. While in Spain, I had the feeling that I was not in a foreign country, but at home.

It was a bit difficult to leave such a place, but now I have arrived in Paris, where for the next few weeks, I will try to improve my very elementary French, engage in random explorations of various parts of the city, and, hopefully, find ways to survive in one of Europe's most expensive cities on a shoestring budget.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Moving!

So, it is on. Today, I will board a flight which will take me from Cincinnati, Ohio to Barcelona, Spain. That's where my journey will begin. Although I have some ideas about the path I will take, I don't know exactly where it will go, and I don't want to know. Not yet. But when I do know, so will you, assuming I (and you) have access to the internet.

More soon to come.